Flats

FLATS

Imagine having coming up with the perfect design and wanting to have it done correctly by your seamstress. The problem is, your seamstress can't properly understand how to create your piece into a final product without a proper technical drawing. This is the part where we introduce technical drawing.

Flat sketches, also called flat drawing, technical flats or just "flats" in the fashion industry, are black & white garments as if it were laid flat to display all seams. Technical drawing must be true to garment and fabric and true to the figure so as to save time and to avoid common mistakes.

What are the differences between a Fashion Illustration Croquis and a Flat Croquis? A Fashion Illustration Croquis has a variety of poses which can stylize proportions to depict a fashion style better. It can have moderate movement and should have or all technical lines. Flat Croquis, however, is a simplified human figure, offered only in static poses. It must be true to actual body anatomy and must have all technical lines depicted on a fashion figure.

Placed below are pictures of different examples of flat drawing done by our team:

Bodysuit/Knitwear Template(left) and Bodysuit/Knitwear Template Over 8-Head Croquis. Traced by R. Azarcon, 2016. From the book 9Heads: A Guide to Fashion Drawing. Riegelman, N. (2003)

The illustration above is an example of a fashion template. It is based on the actual proportions of the figure, which is the eight-head croquis.

Flat croquis focuses on the actual garment, the apparel that must be manufactured. Knowledge on how technical drawings of different kinds of garments should be met helps to avoid product development mistakes.

The croquis is placed directly underneath the flats being drawn to make sure that the proportions are precise. In this illustration, the flat being drawn is an example of a bodysuit/knitwear.

In drawing flats, the Illustrator must take note of a few great points:

1.) There must be symmetry in the flats. Both sides of the drawing must match exactly unless if the design of the designer is asymmetrical.

2.) Always remember that flats are eight-heads.

3.) Always draw the flats pencil first. Inking is done in the end.

Flipover Flats. Traced by B.A. Lapiña, 2016. From the book 9Heads: A Guide to Fashion Drawing. Riegelman, N. (2003)

Fashion Designers use numerous variations of armholes and sleeves in apparel design may it be raglan, a set in sleeve or a cut in one piece with bodice such as kimono or a dolman. A raglan is a type of sleeve for a garment with an armhole starting from an armpit and ending on the neckline or next to the neckline. A set in sleeve is a type of sleeve for a garment with an armhole starting from an armpit and ending on the end of the shoulder seam. A cut in one piece with bodice sleeve is a type of sleeve for a garment with no armhole seam.

The second illustration is composed of 5 flat drawings in different blouses with sleeves. This kind of flat drawing is also called as Flipover flats. Flipover flats is another way of drawing flats on tracing paper. It also involves using a different technique.

Tailored Jacket Flats. Traced by A.G. Pacheco. From the book 9Heads: A Guide to Fashion Drawing. Riegelman, N. (2003)

Jackets, coats and suits are one of the most complicated types of apparel for a fashion designer to draw. Jackets, suits and coats are all about the details.

In a jacket, there are two different ways to design darts: A dart that should be within the shape of the garment without connections with any garment seams or a dart that should be connected with any garment seam. Gores in jackets always originate and end at seams or edge lines which results in two or more panels of garment.

Here are some pointers regarding drawing a flat jacket:

1.You should always show the back central seam for the shawl collar.

2.Keep the flare hem lines always curved.

3.Keep first upper button close to breakpoint.

4. Keep right angle between side seam and hem line.

5. For a single breasted garment, keep buttons precisely on the center line of the   garment.
6. For double breasted garment, keep buttons on the same distance on both sides from the center line.

The following drawings are examples of the comparison between a flat drawing and a conceptual drawing with the Illustrator’s corresponding description:

·      Blouse and Skirt

Blouse and Skirt. Illustration by H.L. Noel, 2016.

             This illustration is inspired by Brandon Maxwell look from his ready-to-wear 2016 Spring    Collection.The cutting of the clothes are so clean and they only use a single fabric but made sophisticated by adding pleats, stylines etc.

         The garment in the illustration is a blouse and skirt ensemble. The top is just a simple flared longsleeved blouse matched with a pencil skirt which has a slit and stylines. It is an all white ensemble; since the skirt already have stylines it is paired with a simple black pointed heels.

·      Three-piece Executive Suit

Three-piece Executive Suit. Illustration by J. Castillo, 2016.

Suits were first made for men. The variations in design, cut, and cloth, such as two- and three- piece, or single- and double- breasted, determine the social and work suitability of the garment. Often, suits are worn, as is traditional, with a collared shirt and necktie. In the illustration, I decided to make a three piece executive suit for women. This just shows how much the fashion for men and women evolved throughout the years. I made the pants look fit and sleek. The suit itself is modernized with folded sleeves. The illustration signifies working women who embody a fashionable and chic side.

On the left side of the illustration, you can see the flat drawings. On the upper part is the button down blouse, followed by a vest, then a blazer jacket. Meanwhile, the pants can be seen on the bottom part. Beside the flats is the conceptual drawing, a nine-head croquis wearing the three piece suit.

That is about it, dear readers. We hope that you have learned a lot from our blog posts. Until next time!

XOXO,

                 WERK

Contributions for Each Member:

Azarcon, Raul- Tracer

Castillo, Jasmine- Illustrator

Go, Elzid- Blog Commenter

Ibones, Angelo- Blog Commenter

Labra, Josefa- Blog Manager

 Lapiña, Benese- Tracer

Noel, Hannah Laye- Illustrator

Pacheco, Aitana- Tracer

Remoreras, Mary Shayne- Blog Manager & Scanner

Ty, Diane- Blog Manager & Blog Owner

References:

Fashion-Flats. (n.d.). Retrieved July 15, 2016, from http://fashion-flats.com/9_jacket_mistakes.html

Fashion Technical Drawing. 250 Free Vector Fashion Flat Sketches.(n.d.). Retrieved July 15, 2016, from http://www.designersnexus.com/fashion-design-portfolio/digital-fashion-flat-sketches/

Riegelman, N. (2006). 9 Heads: A Guide to Drawing Fashion. Los Angeles: 9 Heads Media.

Sanchez, L. (n.d.). Flats [PPT]

Children Croquis and Children's Clothing

Children Croquis and Clothing

Children's bodies and faces are totally different from the adults. Children do not have developed muscles, they must be drawn lightly to show softness in their features. The children's poses and gestures are not that sophisticated unlike the adults, they are natural and playful.


1. Infants/Layettes (12 months old)
In drawing this we use 3 to 3 1/2 no. of heads. At this age infants can't walk, they are drawn sitting or laid down.

2. Toddlers (1-2 years old)
In drawing the toddlers we use 4 1/2 no. of heads. In this age they are drawn sitting, standing or toddling poses. Their faces are round and their eyes are large same size as the adult eyes. Toddler’s limbs are rounded and well padded; their necks are not visible and hair is more evenly spread over the head and their legs are growth form infant.

3. Young Girls and Boys (3-6 years old)
In drawing this 5 1/2 number of heads. In this age they can be drawn standing, sitting, walking and running poses.  Little boys start to have angles and planes in their faces. In this age they have longer torso and more defined necks.

4. Older Girls and Boys (6-12 years old)

The number of heads is 6 1/2 or 7. Their poses are more graceful. Eyes level is same as the adult it is half way down the head.

5. Juniors and Teanagers (12-18 years old)
The no. of heads is 8. Their poses are more likely an adult. With arms, and hips and attitude is displayed. Their appearance is same as an adult except the facial features it is more rounded.

The illustrations below shows the different age category with garments and explanations:

1. We chose, in this illustration, an outfit that speaks of Spring. One of the outfits that you can wear during Spring is a long-sleeved shirt and a tulle skirt. The Illustrator incorporates the look from the reference photo to the croquis of a female toddler, a young girl and a female teenager.

For the toddler's look, the Illustrator paired the outfit with lace socks and doll shoes to represent a child's innocence. Hair clips are also drawn on the toddler's hair. This is a throwback-inspired look from the 20th century when lace socks and hair clips were a staple must for every girl. For the young girl's look, the Illustrator had the same vision with the toddler's look: a child's innocence but there is an added yearning for knowledge and experience. She wanted to show a child's playfulness at this age which is represented by the flow of her tulle skirt as if she was just about to finish twirling in her skirt. The young girl's hairstyle which is the unplaited pigtails is also a representation of innocence. For the female teenager's look, the Illustrator wants to achieve a transition of a girl becoming a lady. Gone are the frilly, lace socks, doll shoes, hair clips and pigtails and it is replaced instead with simplicity. She has natural kept wavy hair and wearing comfortable shoes for her everyday look. Still, the teenager's innocence did not fade away.

Reference Photo

                                                        
                                                     Illustrator: Shayne Remoreras




2. In my illustration, the toddler, young child and teen girl is wearing a denim dress because it is comfortable to wear. I also paired it with simple white top. The toddler, young girl and the teen are wearing different shoes but they are all wearing lace socks to emphasize their youthfulness and show femininity.
Denim dresses never go out of style, whatever your age.

Reference Photo

 Illustrator: Benese Lapiña

3.  In this illustration, the teenager, the kid and the toddler are wearing the  same kind of dress. The dress is from Dolce and Gabbanna. It's a lace dress, black in color and there are floral patches in it, therefore It's a gorgeous dress. 

                                                    

I chose and draw this Dolce and Gabbanna dress because I found it very beautiful and very feminine. I tried to imagine it in a young girl and I kinda liked the result.

The teenager (maybe 15 or 16 years old) wearing the Dolce and Gabbanna dress looks very feminine. I styled her with a chunky heeled shoes and her hair is wavy that suits her age. The kid (maybe 7 or 8 years old) looks very playful in the Dolce and Gabbanna dress. I styled with a cute dollshoes and her hair is short that suits her young age. The toddler is very cute in that dolce and gabbanna dress. I draw her a cute baby shoes and cute socks and I also put a bow in her hair. 

Reference Photo

                                                                       Illustrator: Raul Azarcon



 4. These are illustrations of a group of three teenage female children in party dresses (left side) and another group of three teenage female children that are wearing pants and blouses.

As you can see in the illustrations shown in the picture, there are six teenage girls. The first three are seen wearing party dresses while the second batch of teenage girls are dressed in blouse & pants. Two students divided the task by drawing 3 teenage girls each. The first batch of teenage girls are wearing party dresses that are of the similar silhouettes paired with heels that are not so tall. In the second batch of teenage girls, the croquis are dressed in fitting and flattering clothes for their body type. It can be seen through observation that both students who drew these have different techniques when it comes to shading. The other student shades her illustration a bit darker while the other's shading technique is lighter but with a more focus on the lines.

Illustrator: Josefa Labra (left) & Angelo Ibones (right)

5.The 1st thing to draw of a child's croquis is how to make a pose. The pose of the child can be a bit awkward but that's what children are. They are still in the developing stage. Children's interest in clothing changes as their coordination & their bodies develop. Children's' clothing are always on trend fashion. They can easily follow the trend clothes. They have also clothes for function events such as wedding, party clothes, beach wear and etc. But the most important thing in their clothing is how they are comfortable and happy to wear it. When designing children's clothes, you must always check the fabric choices, openings, fastenings, & trimmings because they are all major considerations that are needed to check in designing children's  clothing. 

                                                                  

 Illustrator:Aitana Pacheco

We hope that you were inspired with our illustrations!

XOXO,

                 WERK

Contributions for Each Member: Azarcon, Raul- Illustrator Castillo, Jasmine- Tracer Go, Elzid- Tracer Ibones, Angelo- Illustrator Labra, Josefa- Illustrator Lapiña, Benese- Illustrator Noel, Hannah Laye- Blog commentor & Blog Manager Pacheco, Aitana- Tracer

Remoreras, Mary Shayne- Blog Manager, Illustrator & Scanner Ty, Diane- Blog commentor, Blog Manager & Blog Owner

References:

Sanchez, L. (n.d.). Children and Children's Clothing [PPT]