Flats

FLATS

Imagine having coming up with the perfect design and wanting to have it done correctly by your seamstress. The problem is, your seamstress can't properly understand how to create your piece into a final product without a proper technical drawing. This is the part where we introduce technical drawing.

Flat sketches, also called flat drawing, technical flats or just "flats" in the fashion industry, are black & white garments as if it were laid flat to display all seams. Technical drawing must be true to garment and fabric and true to the figure so as to save time and to avoid common mistakes.

What are the differences between a Fashion Illustration Croquis and a Flat Croquis? A Fashion Illustration Croquis has a variety of poses which can stylize proportions to depict a fashion style better. It can have moderate movement and should have or all technical lines. Flat Croquis, however, is a simplified human figure, offered only in static poses. It must be true to actual body anatomy and must have all technical lines depicted on a fashion figure.

Placed below are pictures of different examples of flat drawing done by our team:

Bodysuit/Knitwear Template(left) and Bodysuit/Knitwear Template Over 8-Head Croquis. Traced by R. Azarcon, 2016. From the book 9Heads: A Guide to Fashion Drawing. Riegelman, N. (2003)

The illustration above is an example of a fashion template. It is based on the actual proportions of the figure, which is the eight-head croquis.

Flat croquis focuses on the actual garment, the apparel that must be manufactured. Knowledge on how technical drawings of different kinds of garments should be met helps to avoid product development mistakes.

The croquis is placed directly underneath the flats being drawn to make sure that the proportions are precise. In this illustration, the flat being drawn is an example of a bodysuit/knitwear.

In drawing flats, the Illustrator must take note of a few great points:

1.) There must be symmetry in the flats. Both sides of the drawing must match exactly unless if the design of the designer is asymmetrical.

2.) Always remember that flats are eight-heads.

3.) Always draw the flats pencil first. Inking is done in the end.

Flipover Flats. Traced by B.A. Lapiña, 2016. From the book 9Heads: A Guide to Fashion Drawing. Riegelman, N. (2003)

Fashion Designers use numerous variations of armholes and sleeves in apparel design may it be raglan, a set in sleeve or a cut in one piece with bodice such as kimono or a dolman. A raglan is a type of sleeve for a garment with an armhole starting from an armpit and ending on the neckline or next to the neckline. A set in sleeve is a type of sleeve for a garment with an armhole starting from an armpit and ending on the end of the shoulder seam. A cut in one piece with bodice sleeve is a type of sleeve for a garment with no armhole seam.

The second illustration is composed of 5 flat drawings in different blouses with sleeves. This kind of flat drawing is also called as Flipover flats. Flipover flats is another way of drawing flats on tracing paper. It also involves using a different technique.

Tailored Jacket Flats. Traced by A.G. Pacheco. From the book 9Heads: A Guide to Fashion Drawing. Riegelman, N. (2003)

Jackets, coats and suits are one of the most complicated types of apparel for a fashion designer to draw. Jackets, suits and coats are all about the details.

In a jacket, there are two different ways to design darts: A dart that should be within the shape of the garment without connections with any garment seams or a dart that should be connected with any garment seam. Gores in jackets always originate and end at seams or edge lines which results in two or more panels of garment.

Here are some pointers regarding drawing a flat jacket:

1.You should always show the back central seam for the shawl collar.

2.Keep the flare hem lines always curved.

3.Keep first upper button close to breakpoint.

4. Keep right angle between side seam and hem line.

5. For a single breasted garment, keep buttons precisely on the center line of the   garment.
6. For double breasted garment, keep buttons on the same distance on both sides from the center line.

The following drawings are examples of the comparison between a flat drawing and a conceptual drawing with the Illustrator’s corresponding description:

·      Blouse and Skirt

Blouse and Skirt. Illustration by H.L. Noel, 2016.

             This illustration is inspired by Brandon Maxwell look from his ready-to-wear 2016 Spring    Collection.The cutting of the clothes are so clean and they only use a single fabric but made sophisticated by adding pleats, stylines etc.

         The garment in the illustration is a blouse and skirt ensemble. The top is just a simple flared longsleeved blouse matched with a pencil skirt which has a slit and stylines. It is an all white ensemble; since the skirt already have stylines it is paired with a simple black pointed heels.

·      Three-piece Executive Suit

Three-piece Executive Suit. Illustration by J. Castillo, 2016.

Suits were first made for men. The variations in design, cut, and cloth, such as two- and three- piece, or single- and double- breasted, determine the social and work suitability of the garment. Often, suits are worn, as is traditional, with a collared shirt and necktie. In the illustration, I decided to make a three piece executive suit for women. This just shows how much the fashion for men and women evolved throughout the years. I made the pants look fit and sleek. The suit itself is modernized with folded sleeves. The illustration signifies working women who embody a fashionable and chic side.

On the left side of the illustration, you can see the flat drawings. On the upper part is the button down blouse, followed by a vest, then a blazer jacket. Meanwhile, the pants can be seen on the bottom part. Beside the flats is the conceptual drawing, a nine-head croquis wearing the three piece suit.

That is about it, dear readers. We hope that you have learned a lot from our blog posts. Until next time!

XOXO,

                 WERK

Contributions for Each Member:

Azarcon, Raul- Tracer

Castillo, Jasmine- Illustrator

Go, Elzid- Blog Commenter

Ibones, Angelo- Blog Commenter

Labra, Josefa- Blog Manager

 Lapiña, Benese- Tracer

Noel, Hannah Laye- Illustrator

Pacheco, Aitana- Tracer

Remoreras, Mary Shayne- Blog Manager & Scanner

Ty, Diane- Blog Manager & Blog Owner

References:

Fashion-Flats. (n.d.). Retrieved July 15, 2016, from http://fashion-flats.com/9_jacket_mistakes.html

Fashion Technical Drawing. 250 Free Vector Fashion Flat Sketches.(n.d.). Retrieved July 15, 2016, from http://www.designersnexus.com/fashion-design-portfolio/digital-fashion-flat-sketches/

Riegelman, N. (2006). 9 Heads: A Guide to Drawing Fashion. Los Angeles: 9 Heads Media.

Sanchez, L. (n.d.). Flats [PPT]